Travelling With Your Cat

Whether it be by car, by train, by airplane or boat, it’s not always easy to travel with your cat. It is necessary to always arrange certain things in advance – the tickets, an adequate kennel, tranquilizers, and water – in order to assure him maximum comfort and avoid any irregular meowing during the many hours of travel…

Cat shows, week ends in the family cabin, or big vacations… For a civilized chat, the opportunities to travel are seldom missed. A worthy master who deserves to be called such will always plan ahead so that his animal experiences the transportation in the best of conditions. Certain animals are familiarized at a young age with transportation from one place to another, and they accept the situation perfectly, however others struggle with being moved around so much.

If the owner of the cat intends on staying in a hotel, he mustn’t forget to find out if his feline travelling companion will be admitted (only 1 hotel out of 6 accept clients with their pets). In all cases, always remember this precaution: to always attach an identification tag to your cat’s collar. A nervous and anxious animal will always run away quickly!

By Car

Even for a short trip, it is always preferred to use a kennel or cage. Nevertheless, is the cat is calm and reliable, you can always make an exception to the rule: the can will always be able to sit on the knees of the passengers, but the kennel must always be within reach.

If used, the kennel must be placed so that even sudden breaking, stopping or starting will not make it fall. Above all, never put the cat in neither in the trunk nor should he be left in a vehicle without sufficient air circulation or to much sun exposure, which could put him at risk for heat exhaustion. If the trip lasts several hours, give him water and let him out to relieve himself from time to time when nature calls. It’s better to not feed him too much before leaving, which could cause car sickness. Certain cats are subject to this, so it is always prudent to consult your veterinarian, who will prescribe a medicine that prevents noxiousness and that won’t cause drowsiness. If your cat is really irritated, seems uncomfortable or bothered, but is not vomiting, your cat will need a tranquilizer.

By Train or By Bus

Train and bus companies generally do not accept cat unless they are in there kennels. Certain ones, however, allow passengers to keep their cat on leash. The fees are usually minimal, consult the companies before hand.

By Plane

For cats weighing less than 5 kilograms, (a little more than 10 pounds), staying in the cabin is allowed if they are in a kennel. But each airline has it’s own rules, and can not exceed a certain number of animals allowed on the plane. It is thus necessary to plan ahead to assure oneself a spot on board. In the cargo, cats travel in kennels that can be reserved or bought from the airline. The cargo is heated and pressurized so your cat will travel in good conditions. Nevertheless, he will suffer slightly without the presence of his master. In this case, it is better to give him tranquilizers to ease his anguish.

For fees included with the ticket price consult your airline.

By Boat

Ships are not usually well equipped for animal transportation. Usually, animals would travel in cages. In certain boats, animals are tolerated in the cabins. For a small sea voyage, by ferry for example, you can generally use a portable kennel. Once again, there are not rules, it is best to consult the company. Generally, the advantage of taking a boat instead of the others is the extra space. Your cat will be able to walk on the deck with his master. The inconvenience however is a longer voyage and seasickness, which most cats are prone to.

Foreign Travel

Whether it be Rome, Vienna or Athens, before taking your cat to a foreign country, it is necessary to know what vaccinations and documents are demanded by the country.

It’s good to know that Air France has a database of information that indicates the formalities to comply with in whatever country. If not, you can always consult the embassy or consulate of the concerned country.

Most of the time, your cat will need to have a recent certificate of health, given by a qualified veterinarian. Some documents proving that your cat does not have rabies might also be necessary.

Fido's Fortress: Puppy Proofing Your Home

It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient.

I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.

This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:

Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.

Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.

Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.

Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.

Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”

A Guide To Choosing A Leash For Your Dog

The best possible leash to get is one of flat leather or nylon webbing, preferably half inch wide or more. You may have to shop around to get, for pet stores and department stores go in heavily for fancy and useless plastic leashes, thin leather ones and even chains. Avoid all of these.

Any very thin leash of any material will cut into your hands if you have to use any force on it (and sooner or later you will). Make sure it is of good leather or solid webbing, with a loop, big enough to get your hand through and firmly stitched at the other end from the snap.

The snap is important too. There are two good kinds, one with a sliding rod at the side of the snap held firmly in place by a spring, and one which has two curved metal hooks which slide along side each other to make a secure catch for the ring of the collar. Avoid completely the fancier snaps you will see on some leashes, especially the kind that comes apart at the tip of the snap and is held together by a spring.

Six feet is exactly the right length for a leash, regardless of the size of you or the dog. In fact, some city ordinances require leashing at all times in public, and that the leash shall be no longer than six feet. Do not waste money on anything longer at present with the idea of giving him a little more freedom, as you and he will get all tangled up in it. The longer canvas leashes you may see in pet stores are for tracking, where considerable length is required.

The new retractable leashes are perfect for small and medium size dogs. The nylon lead is rolled up and housed in a casing that you can hold. Most brands are available in six foot lengths by a one – button braking and locking mechanism. This is intended as a general guide to help you make a logical selection, with an strong emphasis on quality and strength above all else.

Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat

You’ve finally made the decision to adopt a cat, you’ve dreamt about it for quite some time. Visualising your cute new little kitten playing around the floor and looking up at you with those big baby blues. What could possibly go wrong, after all it’s only a tiny kitten. But have your really thought about how much time, effort and trouble a kitten really is. A kitten is packed full of energy and curiosity and will cry for attention, scratch the furniture, bite and urinate everywhere until it is litter box trained, and will run around the house getting into all sorts of scrapes and trouble. And it’s up to you to look after them 24/7. If you’ve got the time and dedication to look after a kitten, great, but if not, why not think about adopting an adult cat.

A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.

Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.

An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway. They will be able to spend time alone when you are out of the house without getting into too much trouble and hopefully will already be litter trained.

There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.

Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.

Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.

It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.